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Camp and day’s information: Friday, 10th  June 2005

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S of Cetinje





Fine, but cold at night

Sandwiches. Soya chilli con carne, tortillas

We hit Tirane at the tail end of peak hour.  The traffic congestion was bad and the city and driving reminded us of Africa.  People created extra lanes in the face of oncoming traffic and there was a big snarl up where four lanes of traffic going in each direction were trying to squeeze across a two lane bridge.  It wasn't helped by an arbitrary, somewhat senile chap on crutches standing near the end of the bridge trying to conduct the traffic!  The city gave a distinct impression of being third world and had a serious problem with litter.  We were glad to be out of there and back in the countryside.


The verdant countryside has sadly also been tarnished by gratuitous dumping of household rubbish from beds and fridges to cars and everyday refuse.  The border was relatively painless, except we were charged €5 to leave!  The crossing into Montegro was pretty simple.  We were charged $$$3 for driving through a dip of disinfectant and the officials were mostly friendly and helpful.  One (slightly grumpy) official wanted to see inside Nyathi and you could see he was more nosey than anything else.  He even checked inside the cab area.

The main road leading from the border was pretty narrow and overtaking was tricky.  A short while after the border we went down some unmarked village roads which were heading in the general direction we wanted to go and we drove alongside a small, but beautiful gorge filled with brilliant turquoise blue water. 

The village roads met up with the main route heading past Lake Skadar, which was stunning, with a rich variety of birdlife and the edges filled with voracious water plants.  We followed a series of S-bends through the mountains and down to the coast, which was quite spectacular.  There were lots of pristine coastal towns with manicured esplanades.

We drove along the coast for a while and couldn't stop commenting on how gorgeous the water looked.  We headed back into the mountains toward Cetinje.  the scenery continued to amaze us with dramatic mountains fallings down to the coast.  We passed an imposing fort set high upon a ridge which had commanding views over the sea.  I couldn't stop taking photos, with something more interesting or spectacular at every turn.

We found a fantastic camp along an old road around the mountain.  It was completely out of sight of the new road and gave us breathtaking views across the valley towards snow capped mountains in the distance.  I cooked soya chilli con carne for dinner which we had with tortillas and melted cheese.  I also cooked a supply of potato salad for the next few days.  It was great to set up camp a little early and enjoy the reflection of the sunset and listen to the pucker "cuckoo-clock" cuckoos calling in the surrounding trees.


The evening air got distinctly chilly as soon as the sun slid behind the mountains.  We both put our beanies on and used the boiled eggs for the potato salad to keep our hands and ears warm.  We actually tucked them into the outside fold of our beanies - we looked ridiculous, but our ears weren't cold anymore!